Over here for the beer: A bevy of brewmasters is increasingly flocking to London from overseas

“Kölsch is sparkling, ale isn't. Apart from that, they're pretty much the same,” says Benedikt Ott, a German brewer of classic English ales and a wanderer between worlds. He is talking about the bubbles that divide us: Kölsch, a famous speciality from Ott's home town, Cologne, is the sparkling beer he grew up with. Ale is the peaceful liquid to which Ben has devoted his professional life. “Ale is still and not very refreshing but it can be rich and fruity in taste, something Kölsch is not,” he says.


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